Classic Nation

By guest blogger Tom Henderson

The annual Specialty Equipment Market Association (SEMA) Show might not be the first place you’d think to look for classic cars. The annual aftermarket auto parts extravaganza is a frenzy of automotive performance, expression and style. You can find anything from the latest and greatest ATV shock technology to crazy concept vehicles. The Las Vegas Convention Center is filled with custom chrome, modified Escalades and candy-painted Tahoes, all riding on at least 20’’ wheels. It’s new school glitz at its finest. But one of the most alluring exhibits was Popular Hot Rodding’s Project X – the world’s most famous 1957 Chevy. IGotShotgun checks out the new Project X and interviews the designers behind the classic hot rod.

Project X helped define an entire era of horsepower - It has graced the covers of 19 magazines and generated 100 editorials over the years. This newest version is the latest note in the Hot Rod Renaissance. I love the unmistakable 57 style, but the all-new GM Performance Parts Anniversary 427 big block on the inside is the real attraction. Only 427 of these all-aluminum crate engines - based on the original 1969 ZL-1 - will be built. For those familiar with the early Project X, how do you think this one stacks up?

Tom Henderson is a GM vet, working more than 20 years with the automaker. He currently works for GM Performance Parts in Grand Blanc, Michigan.

After a few years of sitting around and getting wet, many rear window seals start to leak. When this happens, water gets into the car and ruins the interior. My car has a very small leak, but it was enough to warp a new rear parcel shelf that I had purchased from Year One a few years back. These original pieces were made our of a cardboard-like material, so I decided to fabricate one.

First, I bought a 8′x4′ sheet of 1/4″ particle type of board. I bought it at Home Depot, but this type of material can be found at almost any lumber or building supply store. I got 1/4″ because I wanted it to be light but easy to work with. I then took my old piece out and used it as a template to cut the shape out of the wood. I used a jig saw to make the cuts, being careful not to cut too small.
Once I did this, I put the piece in place to see how it would fit. Perfect!
I then crawled in the trunk with a pencil and marked where the speaker holes were. Previously, I had opened the factory holes to allow my 6×9s to fit. Since I was going to be getting a new parcel shelf, I treated myself to a set of brand new Infinity Kappa 6×9s as well.

With this all done, it was time to do the carpeting. Since I have a black interior, I used black carpeting. I elected to use the thin, speaker-grade carpeting, as it molds better and is easier to work with. Also, the stock floor carpeting (80/20 loop) would definitely look out of place. I covered the entire panel and folded the carpeting around the edges, overlapping the back about 4″ all the way around. I then stapled and used spray adhesive to keep it in place. Around the edges, I would cut slits so that the carpet would lay flat. For the speaker holes, I poked a hole in the center and made cuts in every direction to meet the wood. I then folded these flaps back and staples and glued them as well.
With this piece done, I was almost ready to go. I first put in a thick piece of juke padding down to help insulate and help with sound.
The piece fit perfectly and looks great.

There are three easy giveaways to tell the exact year Camaro you are looking at when trying to determine the difference between a 1967, 1968, and a 1969 Camaro. These three years with the most sought after body style for muscle car lovers. While grills and lights can be changed, as well as interiors and engines; these three ways have never let me down.

1. 1967 Camaro is the only Year with the front Quarter Windows

3. 1969 Camaro has the quarter panel fins (just in front of the rear wheels).

This is how I always tell which year is which. Does anyone else know of any subtle differences that they use?

I have sourced a set of new quarter panels that I will have put on soon. I decided to do this after speaking with many people, and after all I want it done right and don’t like the idea of covering rusty panels with bondo. Also, I have and will be installing a Edelbrock Performer Carburetor and Intake. This will be a great step up from my stock setup with my one barrel carb. Also, I will be putting on a new HEI distributor and new wires this week. I anticipate being able to feel a difference on how the car drives. The next few weeks will consist of me sanding and sanding….and more sanding. I will keep you all updated with pictures.

These days, many people are trying to immitate SS models of cars to make them look like Super Sports. People do this with Nova’s, Chevelle’s, Camaro’s and Impala’s. It is getting very tough to tell what cars are an SS model and which ones are not. For $50, I can get the SS emblems for my car, which could turn any non SS into an SS look-alike. But, there are a few things that give the non-SS away. On a 65 impala SS, rocker molding was not included on the SS models from the factory (although it was put on a handful as an option).

The 1965 impala SS came from the factory without a mirror on the passanger side (the SS mirror is also more sleek on the driver side). Obviously, the “Chevorlet” script emblem that is situated on the grill on non-SS models has been replaced with a Supersport block lettering emblem in the same location (there is also Super Sport script on the fenders and just below the trunk molding). For impala’s with original wheels, the SS versions had a different hubcap with a three bar spinner in the center, sporting the smooth, red, SS letters. There were many interior differences as well but we will just stick to exterior. With all of these differences, you can usually weed out many of the imposters, but to be 100% sure, you would have to check the cowl tag. SS models were designated as such on these tags.