65′ Impala Disc Brake Conversion


So I had a productive weekend. I have successfully installed my front disc brakes. Here is what I did. First, I jacked the car up and pulled off the wheel. Easy enough. Once I was able to see what I was working with, I lubed all bolts really well with WD-40, hopefully making the rest of the work easier. Once that was done, I removed the two bolts that hold the steering end link to the spindle, which let the entire spindle swing free. Now the only thing holding the spindle to the car was the upper and lower ball joints. I removed the cotter pins and loosened the castle nuts and used a pickle fork to seperate the top one. At this point, I puth the floor jack under the spring pocket and lifted to compress the spring, and allow the weight to be taken off the control arms. I know this isn’t reccommended, but I used a tie down to secure the lower control arm to the frame, in case the jack slipped (I didn’t have a chain). No matter how hard I beat on the pickle fork, I wasn’t able to break the lower ball joint loose, so came the first hiccup in my plan, and a trip to the parts store for some new lower ball joints happened soon thereafter. Having done that, I just removed the lower ball joint from the control arm, leaving it on the old spindle. 

At this point, I cleaned everything up really well, drained and discomnnected the old brake lines, and installed the new lower ball joint. The good thing about the brake I got from POL is that they pack the bearings and assemble everything prior to shipping. I just need to throw it on the ball joints and torque them down and I was good. I made sure to torque everything to specs, and made sure to install the pins in the castle nuts. Once I had the new spindle in place, I connected the steering end link back up, and connected the new blake lines and I was ready to start on the other side. 

I noticed that once I finished up on the other side, that the new spindles made the wheels point in, causing a “toe in” situation, so, as a quick fix, I lifted the car back up, and loosened the adjustment sleeve on each side, and cranked it until the distance from the inside of the rims on the front was the same from the distance from the rims toward the rear. I know this is not the “correct” way to do it right, but at least it is close enough to get me the few blocks away to the alignment shop to have it done right.  Now, I just need to isntall the new dual power master cylinder, hook up the lines and I will be ready to roll! Not only will this be better braking, but I got a 2″ drop with the spindles as well. I think it looks much better with these wheels, too!

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